9 years ago by
Probably the most frustrating and most rewarding way to start a new year is: to learn something new.
In other words: to be totally bad at something.
This year, I decided to learn how to surf – it’s been one of my dreams since I was about 12 years old. I went with Lauren (who surfs), Camille (who surfs really well) and Chris (who surfs really, really well). We are in Costa Rica, where the waves are known to be easy for beginners like me but, right now as I’m writing this, I’m sore as hell, and it’s been like this for three days.
It started amazing – I threw myself into the water with my wetsuit and board just like Elle McPherson in Elle magazine in the 90s. Thirty minutes later, I was standing up on the board, an hour after that, I was doing turns, and I was already imagining my new career as a Roxy spokeswoman, traveling all over the world looking for the best surf spots and announcing that fashion blogs were so 2010 and that the new thing was definitely surf blogs…
When suddenly my body turned against me. It started with me being intensely thirsty, then I had abdominal pain so bad I thought I was going to explode. I begged my teacher to let me take a break and I went to lie down right away, but not without stopping on the way to let my friends know, of course (who are all way better than I am, if you haven’t caught on yet) that I was totally killing it out there.
I’ve got a kind of pretentious bitchy side like that.
(Which, if used properly, isn’t such a bad thing actually – when you exaggerate your performance, you’re forced to get good at it. For example, I swore I was the best foosball player in the world TO A GROUP OF ENRAGED ITALIANS AND GERMANS, so I totally have to practice before our tournament to make sure I could preserve France’s honor).
Anyway.
Other than half passing out, due to the fact that I like to keep my muscles in a state of half-sleep most of the year, taking extra care to avoid any exercise at the gym or any activity that might build muscle other than typing on my iPad, I totally thought I was on my way to being in the world cup of surfing. Or that I’d at least have a little appearance in The Surfers Journal or something. You know, no big deal.
The second day only confirmed my doubts: I surfed like Kelly Slater in the small waves, without missing even one. My friends were all behind me, loving the fact that they were finally going to be able to enjoy my wonderful company on real waves in the days to come. And plus, my muscles were just fine that day – I was the master of the universe.
On Day 3, I was totally telling my teacher that at my level, I was getting super bored with the little waves and it was time to move on. Since she’s a patient person (and she had already figured out that I can get a little carried away) she told me “One more day with the little waves. Tomorrow, we’ll get serious.”
“It’s about time!” I shouted before being hit by a huge wave right in the face.
At 7am the next morning, I was ready on the beach in my blue Lisa Marie Fernandez wetsuit (a surf blog that doesn’t leave behind its fashion roots, what do you think?) doing my stretches. We got into the warm water, in the light of the rising sun. A flock of pelicans took off into the sky, forming a promising “Go, G!”
And this is where the story of my exploits ends and my New Year’s post begins, kids.
F(%&ing s#*t.
How to surf in the big waves by Garance Doré:
First of all, you have to get past the little waves before you can handle the big waves, and honestly, the little waves are a bitch and they don’t make it easy — they will slap you in the face and carry your board away and throw you back on the beach just when you think you’ve gotten the hang of it. They smack you around and mess up your hair and make your SPF 200 sunscreen drip into your eyes, causing instant conjunctivitis, and making it so you can’t tell the diffrence between the sky and the ground and if those are your friends or strangers with vaguely human forms. They also make sure to tear off your swimsuit bottoms, which, after the tenth time, get all stretched out and ugly (except for the Lisa Marie Fernandez, since it’s made of Neoprene, of course, hahaha) and once you’ve fought the waves with all the strength of your youth (hahaha) then you have to get up on your board (miserable), paddle like crazy (super miserable) and pass through enormous waves with your board (so, so, so miserable).
You arrive at the Line-up (where the surfers, the real ones, wait for the wave)
(The place to be)(THE COOLEST PLACE ON EARTH, ACTUALLY).
Paddle like crazy. End up exhausted. Totally. Dead. A little piece of nothing at all in the ocean. A pelican flies over and poops on you. And that’s when the real challenge is supposed to begin. Take a wave and stay standing up on your board.
And that’s when you hear the noise. The sound of the wave crashing against you. It’s crushing you and, while you’re trying to come back out of the water without drowning, another wave grabs you by the collar and throws you to the bottom of the ocean, all the while giving you a bunch of mini-slaps, taking off with your board, your suit, and all traces of vanity if you still had any left. And then the same thing happens all over again.
Until your body and mind are so completely worn out, and you’re just lying on the edge of the beach, wondering why. (A general why about the meaning of life and stupid dreams).
And the next day you try it all again – until you end up finding muscles you didn’t know you had. Until you get your balance, sitting on a board in the middle of the ocean. Until you laugh (not even a ironic laugh) picking yourself up again for the 1,547th time. Until you’re so exhausted you need to take a whole day to rest.
(And it’s precisely on that day of rest that I’m finally able to tell you all about my exploits, dear readers)
So that’s how I started my year – worn out on the beach in Costa Rica, waving at my friends while they were carving beautiful lines in the waves.
The sun was setting, and I told myself that one day I’d be with them, once I’ve learned, gotten past my fears, and found new strengths inside me. I’ll continue to learn, to follow my childhood dreams (even if they’re as simple as learning to surf) and keep trying over and over again until I get it and it becomes a part of me. Well, I mean, or not – actually. Some people never become surfers, and there are some dreams better left behind. We’ll see at the end of next week.
So it’s here sitting on the beach in Costa Rica, as the sun goes down, that I send you my best wishes for the new year. The future will tell us whether or not I become a pro surfer, but in the meantime, I’m putting my whole heart and sense of humor into it, and the little bit of humility I can muster up, to get through learning a new art, which is always so difficult.
I hope you will put your whole heart into your new projects this year, never give up, never tell yourself it’s too late, never lose your sense of humor, and run after everything that makes you love life without giving up even if life slaps you around a little bit. After all, maybe those slaps are well-deserved, you never know ;)
2015 is going to be a fantastic year, we’ve all agreed on that. I send you all big kisses and I’ll be back soon with photos. Pura Vida!!!
Translated by Andrea Perdue
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Beautiful pic!!!
Passa a trovarmi VeryFP
Bravo garance! Je pars a l Harmony Hotel dans un mois et je voulais aussi essayer le surf (posters de Kelly quand j’etais Ado, fiches starclub de Kelly Slater dans un classeur..). mais la perspective de me faire retourner par des waves me terrorise.. Trop hate de connaitre la pura vida!
Bisouxx
Meilleurs Voeux Garance, que cette année soit éblouissante ! de mon côté je vais faire de 2015 une année folle et décomplexée pour moi la petite fille sérieuse et rangée…
Sounds like you had a wonderful time! You make me want to pack my bags immediately :) I know that exhilarating feeling when, after doing something over and over again (I’m a capoeira beginner :) you finally master that one step…that leads to another…and then another :) Can’t wait to see the photos!
Ana
http://www.champagnegirlsabouttown.co.uk
Congratulations! I tried also to learn surfing decades ago, but I have to admit I failed. But after reading your encouraging post I think I should try it again :)
xx from Bavaria/Germany, Rena http://www.dressedwithsoul.com
The best New Year post I have read because you give us a funny and authentic example of how to approach something new and challenging and that takes us out of our comfort zones. This is inspiring because I feel like I am taking a risk by putting myself out there and doing something completely new and different for someone like me. So I will take your advice even if I get slapped I will have a good laugh about it and try again!
Accidental Icon
http://www.accidentalicon.com
Pura Vida :) Happy 2015 Garance!
Congrats! I was always the one watching not surfing and I’m cool with that. I enjoy walking on the sand, reading, sleeping…
http://www.pinterest.com/GeraldineTrip
Thank you, Garance, so much for your encouraging words! Hold on, girl, keep going! 2015 will be a great year!
I hope this year is everything you want and more <3
Giveaway on my blog!
http://hashtagliz.com
Happy merry 2015, Garance !!! Bon courage pour le surf !
My head gets big in the same way, and reality slaps me down, and that’s ok. But I love your inspiring message for this year. I am a photographer/artist and I have been going at this for about 20 years now. Not really getting anywhere, but still going, and still getting up. Over and over again. I will continue because it’s what gives my life meaning. Whether I get anywhere with my creative work or not is kinda moot even though, deep down, I know that my time is coming. And I’m going to be 44 this year!
Is this Manuel Antonio beach??
Really inspiring …
Best wishes !!
This post is perfection! I’ve started a new project recently, one out of my comfort zone (not surfing), and have already thought about giving up at the first road block. I so needed to read this today! Thank you Garance!
My Dear Garance…i feel like you starting new things and trust the magic of beginnings..
365 new days,
365 new chances
wishing you a great year+++
with love
Yael Guetta
http://www.ftwwl.com
Mdr et très touchant à la fois, merci !!
A propos de se battre et alors que mon entreprise traverse des moments difficiles (du coup ca fait 2 soirs que je me remets à la bio de DVF car elle me donne TOUJOURS des forces pour avancer contre vents et marées !), je viens de rêver cette nuit que je venais de passer 5 ans d’affilé à dormir pour raison de burn out sévère >.<
Merci à toi et ton sens de l'humour et de l'humilité et tes photos merveilleuses !! Tu es mon rire du jour !! :D
Happy new wave! Allez!! :-)
Je t’admire ! Pour moi, le surf a l’air tellement … compliqué, épuisant … par contre tu dois te sentir libre une fois que tu es debout sur ta planche à te laisser porter par les eaux ….
http://laureenlifestyleblog.blogspot.fr
Oh Garance fille des isles lointaines quelles méga claques tu te prends à te faire chahuter cul par dessus tête comme un vieux canard mouillé ! Au moins t’auras essayé c’est hyper important. dans ces cas-là je pense à Mermoz … il a essayé de décoller 49 fois avec le premier avion de l’Aéropostale chargé de courrier !!! Cà donne du courage et de la détermination. Je te souhaite la grande vague dans le coeur, au studio et sur la mer !
houla, je sens que ça me plairait pas, comme sport….
tente le SKATING, aussi décourageant au début, mais on arrive assez vite à qqchose et on ne se prend pas de vague, au moins…
excellent 2015 en tout cas!
Inspiring post, congrats on the surfing x
http://www.wild-cherrytree.com
Wish you a very happy new year!
http://imyownmuse.blogspot.com
Bonjour Garance,
ton post m’a vraiment fait rire ….et envie d’essayer de surfer!
Merci pour ta bonne humeur et ton sens de l’humour.
Happy New Year Garance! Can you let us know which surf camp you went to? I’m researching my own trip and would love a recommendation!
xo
Tu as raison Garance, ne jamais laissé s’envoler ses rêves !! Très belle année à toi ! Quelle soit riche en tout point ! Bises
http://www.mode9.fr
Bonne annee et happy waves, l’important c’est d’essayer !
A ce propos, je commence cet apres-midi meme, un nouveau cours de peinture, comme quoi il n’est jamais trop tard……….
Quelle rigolade ! tu as raison l’humour et l’humilité sont les meilleurs alliés !
Bonne année à toi!
On n’a pas les vidéos mais il me semble que tu t’en sors hyper méga mieux que Brice de Nice (que je viens de revoir et qui contient quand même des répliques cultes telles que “Tirez pas, c’est des surfers!”, ou encore “pas de violence, c’est les vacances”).
Je suis sûre que tu atterriras un jour dans la rubrique artistique du Surfer’s Journal, tellement bien ce magazine, même quand on surfe pas.
Bravo pour ce billet plein d’humour :)
Et merci de votre intérêt pour le surf!
– Guillaume, un blogueur qui essaie de concilier surf, beach lifestyle et mode :)
Thanks, best wishes from Amsterdam!
In 2015, I still hope you will pay attention to designer brands that produce fair and sustainable fashion.
Quelle épopée dis donc! Ce récit était vraiment génial! J’ai un peu connu la même chose quand mon homme a voulu m’initier aux joies du surf, sauf que lui n’est pas du tout passé par la case petites vagues; il m’a amené direct dans des vagues qui m’ont semblées plutôt grosses, même si elles n’étaient pas énormes, mais surtout avec beaucoup de courant.
Cette impression d’être passée dans une machine à laver, je l’ai bien connue!
Bon courage dans ton initiation!
Christine
Love hearing about your surfing!
http://www.FashionSnag.com
Love love love your wonderful big spirit – go Garance! It will be amazing (it already is!)!!
I’m trying something terrifying, too — learning to draw. Shh, don’t tell. It’s my little secret, because I’ll be terrible for a long time. But that’s good for me – I’m terrible at being terrible at things, so getting used to that and pushing past it will be good practice. Just like surfing, no? Only without the cute neoprene :)
May all your adventures in 2015 be amazing and bring you great joy!
My surfing experience was pretty similar to yours! I had always dreamed of surfing, then got a boyfriend who wanted to teach me. I did really well for two summers until I tried surfing in Newport, RI after a big storm – And caught my first big wave – and then panicked and ended up nosediving (into that cleft left behind when the wave is so big) and getting hit on the head with my surfboard while trying to swim to the surface. After that I just never liked big waves – maybe I’m not brave enough – but I don’t care. I am a little wave surfer. :-) Let’s call it casual surfing…
Great post. After growing up in Hawaii I regret not learning how to surf, looks like a fun activity. Maybe one day I’ll visit again and try :)
http://www.mintnotion.com
garance, this is lovely, thank you! happy new year!
Honnêtement j’ai faillit pester contre toi – non j’ai pesté contre toi- je me suis tellement galèrée à me mettre debout la première fois sur une planche bien que j’en rêvais depuis des années ! Je me suis dit “merde y’a pas de justice” ! Bon quand même heureusement les vagues t’ont rappelés à l’ordre. (tout ceci est a prendre avec humour bien évidemment mais je sais que tu en as ^^). En tout cas c’était une bien belle façon d’accueillir cette nouvelle année ! Je te souhaite une très belle année à toi Garance mais aussi à toute l’équipe du studio doré !
:)))))…dorénavant quand tu prendras des photos de surfeur/ses ça sera différent, c’est ce qui m’arrive à moi en tout cas ;-)!, merci pour tes jolis mots encourageantes :)!
Je crois que c’est mon post préféré (surtout que, personnellement, je n’ai jamais réussi à naviguer au planning en planche à voile)!
Je te souhaite une merveilleuse année 2015, Garance!
Le surf, c’est beaucoup plus qu’un sport, un état d’esprit…
Merci Garance, j’ai carrément ri aux éclats en lisant ton post.
I think the secret of being successful really is to stay focused and keep going!
Very inspiring story. Happy 2015 Garance!
Ulrike
Merci pour ce post inspirant. Je te souhaite une belle année 2015!
Meilleur post!!!! Ca donne envie, ca fout la trouille!
Happy New Years!! Wishing you and your team the best for 2015!
Thank you for your inspiring words, it’s exactly what I needed to read to uplift and start of my morning and my year!
xoxo
How funny to read…but serious keep on task … waving! Enjoy your 2015-goals.
Keep at it Garance! You want to tick it off at the end of the year of things you achieved, right? :)
Chère Garance, je ne commente jamais mais pas un jour je ne manque les articles du blog. J’ai adoré cet article… Emplie d’humour et ce style d’écriture…J’adore…. MERCI BEAUCOUP! Avancer, ne jamais renoncer et entreprendre… Voilà ce que je retiens! Merci encore. Et tres bonne Année a vous.
Meilleurs voeux 2015, en espérant voir ta créativité et celle de ton équipe toujours au top !
Et merci pour ces voeux touchant, ils sentent le renouveau et la joie de vivre : quoi de mieux demander pour commencer un début d’année malgré les courbatures ? ;)
It better be a picture of you riding those waves !!!! I can’t sait to see It!!!!
Surfing is no joke! It is hard! I tried it once in CA when I was 20 and my experience was the same as you describe–it’s like being repeatedly punched in the face and then drowned, over and over. Good for you, Garance! I still want to learn it and master it (I’m now almost 40). If I ever find myself near an ocean again, I just might!
I always wanted to do it!!!
xx
Mónica
MES VOYAGES À PARIS BLOG – THE BEST OF 2014!!!
J’ai adoré cet article. Il est toi. Tu parviens toujours à me faire rire tout en racontant unes anecdote remplie de vérité, de sensibilité. Merci pour ces voeux de bonnes année. Continue à persévérer en surf, tu y parviendras. ^^
BRAVO !!! What a starter for the new year !!! I am very happy and proud of you to have taken on this challenge, was laughing out loud while reading it. All dreams worth pursuing are difficult in the beginning but in the end it’s worth all the pain and efforts ! imaging that wonderful feeling you will finally have when you can make those beautiful lines in the big waves !!! I say don’t give it up just because it’s hard. take the challenge and the time to master it. Challenges are good opportunities for us to grow and become stronger. Big Kisses !!!
You go G! Great analogy to start the year with courage, laughters and purpose:)
Oh, I’m pretty sure very soon you’ll be awesome on that surfboard!
C’est vrai que c’est hyper gratifiant de commencer une nouvelle activité et en même temps tellement flippant.
Quand j’ai commencé la couture, pareil que toi je pensais que j’allais être la meilleure et ce très rapidement. J’ai de tout petits doigts, vraiment minuscules et fins, mais malgré ça, ils me paraissent être énormes tant je manias mal la machine à coudre et ne savais comment faire glisser le tissu sous l’aiguille.
Mais en fait tout n’est que question de pratique. J’ai maintenant ma propre marque http://www.cheyma.com, avec des vêtements que je couds moi-même et il n’y a rien de plus beau que de voir son travail payer, et que de créer des choses de ses propres mains.
Je suis ravie.
Bientôt un post sur mon blog à propos de cela.
Et oui oui, 2015 va être formidable c’est sûr! Merci pour tous tes voeux!
Bises Garance et good luck pour la surf world cup, on y croit!
http://cheyma.com
Loving this article!! Thanks a lot!
So cool that you tried surfing! Very inspiring! I’m not up for surfing but I resolve to try something new, maybe painting
Leftbankgirl.blogspot.com
The only blog posts I read from top to bottom. Thanks for making my day :D Those waves will be your bitch someday Garance.
Happy New Year Garance! This blog post is the reason you are everyone’s favourite. Love!
Belle Garance! I am happy and proud of you that you had the courage to try something new, and out of your comfort zone. Way to go Garance!
And also something that involved living not just looking pretty like fashion. I am glad to read/hear this.
Happy New Year
Karin fromLos Angeles
Beautiful post. Happy New Year!
I would live to know what beach you were on in costa rice that is good for surfing? We are planning a trip in march with our 13 year los son who wants to surf.
Any tips would me much appreciated! Thanks Onward and upward in 2015!
En tout cas, tu m’auras bien fait rire aujourd’hui!
Bon courage…
Et belle année!
(et tu vas voir ton corps tout musclé en rentrant la semaine prochaine, le bonheur!)
Bonne année Garance!
Je trouve génial de concrétiser un rêve. Et je suis certaine que maitrise de la discipline ou non, au final tu auras fait ce qu’il faut pour te donner l’occasion d’essayer le surf. C’est ce qui compte, à mon avis ;) En tout cas, moi qui suis une couch potatoe, je comptatis avec tes courbatures!!! Courage et profites bien :)
Je voulais aussi dire merci pour ce post qui me rebooste! Bises
Photo sublime et poste bien marrant, plein d’enthousiasme et de good vibes pour 2015 : merci !
http://lattesanssucre.com
Le blog déjanté à boire au bureau
Hello ! Super article qui m’ a donné des frissons ! j’ai commencé l’année dernière et je partage totalement ! Keep going !!!
Hello !
As a fervent surfer and fan of your blog, I think this is so far your most inspiring post !
You described exactly the feeling and I am happy to tell you not to worry, surfing is still a challenge even when you can surf big waves and draw cool manoeuvres (I have been surfing for 10 years now, still loving it, still getting my a$$ beaten).
I love your passion, I love your blog, and I love surfing.
Thank you for this post.
xoxo
A surfer from Morocco.
Wish you a very happy new year!
Giveaway on my blog
http://aktifmoda.com
Merci pour tes vœux, Garance.
OK, on va faire comme ça, rester motivée et y croire plus que jamais !
Tous mes vœux également pour une super année 2015 :-)
J’ai commencé la danse en septembre dernier… à 33 ans !!
J’ai toujours rêvé d’en faire, mais ça ne s’est jamais fait. Et puis à la dernière rentrée, je me suis dit : “et pourquoi pas ?” !!
Je ne serai jamais un petit rat de l’opéra, encore moins une grande danseuse, mais quand je vois les progrès que j’ai fait en quelques semaines, moi qui n’ai pas vraiment le sens du rythme et qui ai un gros problème de coordination, c’est très gratifiant. Bon, il faut tout de même mettre son égo un peu en veille…
Bref, il ne faut jamais renoncer à ses rêves !
Des bises
Merci pour ces beaux vœux Garance ! Moi, je continue de courir (ou de marcher aussi, à des moments) vers mes rêves. Et l’humour, ça aide définitivement.
Great story and morale Garance! I had a similar experience/fantasy learning to surf in Fuerteventura, your post brought back the struggle and the funny memories. Bonne anne!
Merci Garance,
je te souhaite pleins de bonheur, ton article est revivifiant, il faut réaliser ses rêves pour accomplir sa légende personnelle; si tu n’as pas lu l’Alchimiste de Paulo Coelho c’est le moment.
Milles bisous de Marseille où moi aussi j’essaye de réaliser mes rêves <3
When I surfed in Costa Rica last year, I was also daunted by “paddling out the back.” I had a couple of awful nosedives, those ones where you know it’s going to happen a split second before it does, and then you’re forced underwater for an almost scary amount of time. Once a wave twisted me so strangely that I worried I’d snap a bone.
I didn’t expect surfing to be so scary. When you see the wave a little ways off, growing bigger and bigger…
But something my coach told me stuck. And another lesson I had to deduce myself:
1) First, my coach’s note: I once had a great wave, had my functional stance all in line, and I still got thrown off. I didn’t know what I’d done wrong and was upset. My coach said, “You didn’t do anything wrong, sometimes there’s just a bump in the wave that throws you off.” So, yeah. Sometimes we can analyze all we want, but it may just be a bump in the wave.
2) Secondly, my lesson: My coach used to say “Go go go!” to tell us which waves to take. This lead to one of my worst nosedives – she’d urged me to take a wave I wasn’t ready for. I felt a lot of pressure sitting and waiting, so I took the wave, but I hadn’t felt ready to. After that I realized that it really is important to trust your own instincts and do what feels right, not feel pressured to do something you’re not comfortable with.
Enjoy the rest of your trip, and don’t worry if you’re not a pro after a week. Even just getting in the water and trying is huge. Paddling out the back (the “big boy waves” I call them) is a huge deal, whether you catch lots of waves or not.
Oh Garance, you summed it up so well. Keep going with surfing; it is one of the most humbling and thrilling things you can do! But the ocean will sure tell you who’s boss…
Garance,
This is the most amazing and honest “new surfer” report ever! I have been “starting” to surf since I was 12 and never really have the time to get serious about it even though I now live in California ( that must be beacuse it’s cold an foggy in northern Cali ?), anyways you just perfectly described my two experiences at surf camps! Surfing is hard and challenging that I will never give up on it, that must be a way !
And the line up really is the coolest place EVER!
:)
Hello Garance,
You are an inspiration! Tomorrow I start work somewhere new in a completely different field to what I was trained in. I am terrified. And excited. Happy New Year!
Mabel
Having had a similar experience in Costa Rica myself, I really enjoyed reading this post. It was like reliving old times. Please do a follow-up post to let us know the status of your surfing skills at the end of your trip. I’m totally in favor of the new fashion/surf blog.
Wish you a very happy new year!
Giveaway on my blog.
http://kadinsozluk.com
Great story and morale
on my blog. http://modamodel.net/