This Is Braiding
9 years ago by
I’ve always been fascinated by braids – never had them, but I think it’s such an interesting way to completely change a look. It’s obviously also part of a culture that we too rarely talk about on the blog, so I thought it was about time…
We went with our friend Saada to Khamit Kinks, a salon in Brooklyn, to see what the experience of braiding was like. It was incredible to see, from start to finish, such a transformative process. It’s so detailed, from the initial oiling of the hair to the weaving in of extensions, braiding and sealing of the braids (with boiling hot water!).
It’s long and tricky, to get the braids just right. The braiders are so precise, focused the entire time. It took over six hours, and we wanted to share with you what that looked like and what we learned along the way…
Interview with Anu Prestoria, owner of Khamit Kinks
Why did you start braiding?
My grandmother was a hair stylist, and she used to do my sister’s and my hair, so it came naturally to me. When I was in college, I started braiding my own hair. I went to a party, and this guy was like, “Who did your hair? The salon I work for is looking for a braider.” This is in Washington, D.C. in 1978.
How old were you?
19? I was at Howard University, then I moved back to New York.
Have braids become more popular over time?
Oh, way more popular. When I first began, the only people who were having their hair braided were students, people who were involved in African culture, or artists. When I first started, the styles were quite different from this. They were really, really, really tiny braids with beads; micro braids with beading. Then extensions came out and gave a look that was more acceptable in the corporate world.
It became more mainstream?
It was a very slow process — very, very slow. Back then, there was a push back. I know airline stewardesses who sued the airlines because they were told they couldn’t wear braids.
And you had braids?
Oh, I’ve worn every style. Every single one. I’ve had locks, all together, for 15 years. I’ve had every type of braid style.
How have braid styles changed?
They’ve changed, but we have a lot of perennial styles. What has changed a lot is that now that we have a lot of people interested in natural hair. Many of them don’t want to wear braids or twists or anything this structured, they want to wear their hair out. We’re not new to natural, we’re true to natural, we’ve been doing this. For us, it’s not just about the style, it’s whether or not your hair can support that style, whether or not your hair is healthy enough for that style, or strong enough for it.
What does maintenance involve, in between salon appointments?
Lubricate their scalp with our hair oils. They can also use leave-in conditioners. And they should shampoo once every two to three weeks.
Is it commonplace turn people away because their hair isn’t strong enough?
Oh, yeah. Certain salons, many salons, give you anything you want. We won’t do something that’s going to further damage their hair.
What are the dangers of applying braids to hair that isn’t strong enough?
They can lose their hair. It might not happen that first time but they’re gonna either weaken their hair or it’s just going to come out all together. Sometimes it won’t grow back, if you damage the follicles, it won’t grow back. The baldness is permanent.
Who were the people that were influential when braiding first became popular?
In that era, artists like Stevie Wonder, Cecily Tyson, Maya Angelou, you know, iconic people. A lot of celebrities were because it was a black power thing, afro and braids.
What are the effects of relaxing and perming in opposition to braiding?
Well, because of the chemicals, the hair is gonna thin out over time. I’ve met like women who had their hair relaxed for 20 or 30 years and, one day, they wake up and have no hair. It was thinning out all along, they just didn’t notice it.
And can you tell me a about the ANU products you developed?
I started making hair oils for my clients when I first started back over thirty-something years ago because people of African heritage tend to have a dry scalp and hair, especially in this cold environment. It was hard to lubricate the scalp with pomade with braids in, so I developed an oil. The secret ingredients are the botanicals that we set with the oils.
Interview with Saada
Have you had braids before?
It’s not my first time getting braids, but it’s the first time I’ve had these kind of braids. When I was a kid, I had single braids but without extensions. I also had cornrows, but that was 10 years ago.
What does it mean to you, culturally, to have braids?
It’s an important part of my heritage. I see it as a sign of beauty.
Who braided your hair growing up?
My mom. But then if I wanted to get like a specific type of braids, I would go with my aunt to the salon
And how does it feel having extension braids?
It feels good. I whip my hair back and forth!
WOW! C’est beau.. thank you for the story and the photos! xxSol
Quelles belles photos!
Merci pour le partage!
Bonne soirée
Bises
Le monde des petites
http://www.lemondedespetites.com/
So much beauty! They are so talented and I love their business model of keeping hair healthy and not just flipping a profit – that is so admirable in a business. Their salon is gorgeous too, I love the sign!
Warm Regards,
Alexandra
http://www.littlewildheart.com
Great interviews! How wonderful that Anu is so intentional in preserving people’s hair. How scary/sad it would be to wake up with no hair…
I love that The Studio interviews people of all different backgrounds and cultures! It’s fun to see so many different beauty routines, and how the idea of beauty and style can be interpreted so many different ways.
xx- Lynn-Holly
There are so many very beautiful, positive and encouraging comments here. I am ever grateful to the Garance Dore for this incredible feature.
This made me so happy. Surprised and happy. I wear braids and they are historically a big part of my culture. As a little girl getting your hair braided for the summer so you could run around, swim and be carefree was a huge part of what signaled that summer time and freedom was around the corner. Thank you for such a thoughtful piece and I love the images.
Great post! New topic! I like it!
http://www.blushandbeyond.com/culture/dior-and-i-an-intimate-look-into-the-world-of-haute-couture/
xo
Alix
Love this!
I just had my natural hair braided into a chignon style before my trip to Los Angeles.
I lived in L.A. for over ten years before I escaped and moved to Rome.
At first I was nervous about the reaction to my braids in the land of the long blonde weave. Once I arrived, I realized I shouldn’t worry about these things.
WOW quelle belle article! Je suis vraiment très contente d’entendre parler “de moi’ sur le blog! Je suis si heureuse de voir ces photos et de lire cet article! Merci et j’en veux d’autres!!
Have you read Americanah, by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie? Such a great book… These pictures reminded me of it
Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie – I have never read her books, but they are on the list! I did, however, come across her TED talk on feminism which was so eloquent and thoughtful. I sent it to all my friends and family who have children – I think the message would make for a better world for them.
Everyone should watch though – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg3umXU_qWc
PS. She is rocking beautiful, majestic, braids in the video. (I loved this post)
That book is on my reading list!
This also reminded me of Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. Such a wonderful novel. I too really enjoy when the blog shows diversity and feel it can be boring with out. These photos are gorgeous.
On another note: you must see the film, “Dior and I”. The humanity in this film touched me deeply. Of course the fashion is beyond fantastic as well. I was spellbound.
This 50+, Eastern European girl with straight hair has always wanted dreads! Go figure, right? Braids are awesome too. I would settle for a nice fishtail. This post was wonderful, love the aesthetic, love the women.
Anita
http://www.lookforthewoman.com
The photos, the light are gorgeous ! It’s the first time I see a hair salon through this lense. Great report. Who’s is the photographer? bravo to him/her
I love the photos accompanying the interview. Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s book Americanah does such a beautiful job of writing about braiding. As always, love the diversity of the blog!
Super article ! Je ne suis pas concernée mais ça change et ça a vraiment du sens de représenter toutes les beautés sur ce blog ! J’avais une collègue qui changeait radicalement de tête tous les 6 mois, c’était incroyable !
Merci pour ce super reportage, c’est cool que vous osiez sortir des sentiers battus de temps en temps.
G, this is AWESOME!! I started following you because you had a unique perspective on life/ style/ food/love and I could connect being of different background! But seeing this makes me even happier because I can see myself on your blog!! I LOVE IT!
I’ve had braids for so long, and like they said, braids have become more acceptable in the mainstream life, even at work no one bats an eye everytime I work through the door with a different braid style.
I braid a lot during the summer as having natural hair can be such a pain when you have to swim and do other outdoor activities. I tried locking my hair but I couldn’t handle it, so only a year into it (before if even fully locked) I cut my hair off!
This is beautiful. So many people spend loads of time and money on harsh chemical treatments in order to have a hairstyle that is “work appropriate.” I hope that in the future, women don’t have to narrow their hair options in order to pursue a career in a particular field.
Thank you :)
Ça s’ essouffle ici. On commence à parler de nattes, hier c’était la météo. Mauvais signe. Les photos sont belles, soit mais les merveilleuses illustrations de Garance se font rares, les pubs masquées sont envahissantes sans la contrepartie de la fraîcheur d’avant, du côté vivant et léger qu’on aimait.
Quel est le problème avec les nattes? La météo, ok, je comprends, mais puisqu’il y a déjà eu des billets sur d’autres sortes de coiffures, je ne vois vraiment pas le problème avec les nattes.
Merci Sophie, je me suis posée la même question…En quoi parler de nattes est un signe d’essoufflement pour le blog? Cette coiffure est portée par de nombreuses lectrices du blog (dont moi-même), et je trouve au contraire que c’est une grande avancée pour le blog qui ose enfin sortir des sentiers battus, et surtout qui prend en compte la diversité de son lectorat.
Violette je ne comprends pas ton commentaire. Au cas ou tu ne l’aurai pas remarque le blog de Garance a beaucoup evolue ces dernières années, les illustrations c’est cool et c’est toujours un plaisir de les voir, mais un peu de diversité et de sujets différents c’est bien aussi non?? Et c’est ce qui rend ce blog intéressant et populaire
Merci Garance et le studio pour cet article!
this is awesome — the culture is really cool
http://hashtagliz.com
Watch Chris Rock’s documentary movie about hair!
Neada, this is a really good interview! Thank you so much for posting it. I love braids/braiding and always want to know more, but as a white girl, you’re afraid to ask, you know? So this is great. Well done.
Effectivement, il était temps que vous vous lanciez, et c’est réussi.
I had my hair braided with extensions for several months last year. The braids allowed my hair to grow out so that I can cut off all the relaxed hair to start fresh with my natural hair. Unfortunately I was harassed by my manager to go back to relaxing my hair. I eventually left the company and am strongly considering growing my hair out again so that i can go back to my natural hair.
BTW, I live in the Caribbean.
Your (ex) manager is such a dick ! No one shall never ban natural hair in workspace (and anywhere else neither, of course), it’s so discriminatory, ignorant, and rude. More when you know the toxicity of straightening products… The guy is like : “please, poison yourself because i find it more professional”, wtf ? raaah It’s totally not OK to act like this, it pisses me off. Natural hair are so beautiful ! Send you so much support.
A beautiful story. Thank you.
Great feature and very fascinating!
Moi aussi j’adore, c’est tellement génial, et merci de partager avec nous cette expérience!!
L.A
Je trouve ça magnifique ces coiffures, je n’imagine même pas à quel point cela doit faire mal au cuir chevelu au début mais c’est vraiment très beau.
Une youtubeuse anglaise, Tasha Green, change comme ça assez régulièrement de tête en passant de ses cheveux naturels à de multiples types de tresses différents et c’est incroyable le style et l’allure que ça lui donne.
Pour moi les coiffures tressées c’est signe de sophistication et de “coolitude” à la fois, j’envie les filles qui en portent !
Wow! Je n’espérais même plus voir ce genre d’article sur GaranceDoré.com. Enfin!
J’adore! Les photos sont très belles; Quelle ironie, j’ai défait mes tresses hier et maintenant je porte l’afro ;)
Bel article Neada et bravo d’avoir oser.
J’aime beaucoup la façon dont vous avez abordé ce thème des tresses!
Merci
Christine
Great post. I was pleasantly surprised and happy about the topic. I love braids and I’ve worn them as a child and as an adult. Just looking at the photos reminded me of the days I sat for hours in a chair while two to three women weaved their magic.
The oddest part of the process is my favorite part of the process…the boiling water. After the scalding dunk, the hair becomes softer and I’d leave the salon with warm braids blanketing my back. There was a time years ago I had each braid sealed with a lighter. It only works with synthetic hair. The process smells awful and it’s basically a lint magnet.
As an African woman, this article has really made my day. I love seeing such an important part of my heritage given due attention on one of my favourite blogs. Maybe when next you’re in Paris you could spotlight black hair stylists there? Thank you Studio and Garance!
Oh Thank you Neada, It’s one of the best article i’ve seen on the blog in a long time ! Lovely pictures and nice atmosphere, and the subject tackled with simplicity is interesting. Good point, cause I was becoming a bit sick about reading always the same kind of articles that deal only with one versions of the so-called “Eternal-New-Yorker” : most of the time she’s white, a bit posh but so siiiimple, wearing couture jeans, loafers and white shirt (I’m exaggerating only slightly). In itself this is not necessarily a problem, but when she’s always overshadowing all others type of stylish women, it gets a bit uppsetting, right? (These words coud echo the Editor’s Letter No. 8, which I found relevant, you know what I mean?) After a while, even as a white girl myself, it could actually ends up being a bit boring : I was coming less and less on the blog, I admit. So i can tell you I was immediately enthusiastic about your article ! Ps: It is good to read that on the blog : “It is also part of a culture we are talking too little about the blog, so it was about time we start”: It is thrue, honest and fair to correct it : Bon Esprit, thumbs up!
Merci Neada, voilà l’un des plus chouettes articles que j’ai lu sur le site depuis longtemps ! Il se dégage une belle atmosphère de ces très jolies photos, et le sujet, abordé avec simplicité, est intéressant. Ca tombe bien, je désespérais de ne lire presque QUE des articles qui ne traitent quasiment que des déclinaisons de la pseudo La New-Yorkaise-Eternelle, forcément blanche, toujours un peu posh mais tellement siiiimple, forcément en jean, loafers et chemise blanche (je grossis à peine le trait). En soi c’est pas forcément un problème, en soi on lui jette pas forcément la pierre à cette New-Yorkaise là, mais quand elle pique systématiquement la vedette à toutes les autres, ça devient gonflant, non ? (ce qui peut être fait un peu écho à l’Editor’s Letter N°8, que j’ai trouvé très juste, vous voyez ce que je veux dire ?) Au bout d’un moment, le créneau s’épuise et on se lasse : du coup j’allais de moins en moins sur le blog, je l’avoue. Avec cet article, je suis ravie ! Ps : C’est une bonne chose que vous reconnaissiez que : “Ça s’inscrit aussi dans une culture dont on parle trop peu sur le blog, donc il était temps qu’on se lance” : C’est vrai, c’est bien de le corriger, et ça a le mérite d’être honnête et bon esprit, Thumbs up !
C’est une très bonne chose de parler à des femmes toutes différentes, mais qui viennent lire ce blog. Un très beau reportage et un bel interview. Merci Neada et merci le Studio.
This is gorgeous. Thank you for posting
J’adore les nattes, une de chaque côté, je trouve que ça crée une impression d’Indien d’Amérique, j’adooore, j’ai l’impression de voyager dès que j’en ai :)
Bisous from France,
Sand. :)
http://www.taimemode-fashionblog.com
Incredible post!
LOVE this! I’m half black and have been tempted to try this with my hair for so long… but I got most of my hair genes from my white mom so it’s more on the silky side. Definitely considering getting it done though!
P.S. the layout of your blog is amazing!
xoxo,
Lara
Sea Foam & Diamonds
Nice post!
http://beautyfollower.blogspot.gr
This was a WONDERFUL surprise! Thank you!
Great fan of Garance.
What took you so long?
Next … Dreadlocks.
Very interesting story, love you for such kind of stuff!
Hairdresser here……..incredible….meticulous ….beautiful results….
Très surprise et heureuse de me connecter sur le site et tomber sur cet article :)
mais quelle allure avec les extensions super longues…! :D
Thank you so much for this, I have to say that this made my day, it is pleasant whenever you can see yourself in the things you love. Thank you.
Love this. I wear my hair braided 4-6 months of the year. I usually braid my own hair but when I visit Nigeria I get it done at home too. Braids are such a staple with many Africans and they can be so convenient. It’s nice to see this here, not what I would usually expect to see.
Garance!
Thank you so much for this. It is so nice to see something I can specifically relate to as an African-African women on the blog. Not that I don’t relate to MOST of your content – you’re my favorite! But I’m sure that you can understand that women of color are not always represented when it comes to lifestyle blogs. Please continue to feature diversity of all colors, shapes, ages, gender etc. etc.
Lots of love,
Jessica
Saada looks so beautiful with her braids! The salon looks beautiful as well.
Great interview!
Thank you for doing this Garance and team. I have been a natural hair girl for over 20 years. It is great to see you cover this! Thank you!
Je suis trop contente a propos de ce post! C’est tellement beau et en tant que femme africaine, on a besoin de voir plus d’ images qui glorifient notre cuir chevelu et héritage culturel.
Merci!
Wow FINALLY. What an excellent post- something that’s finally related to women of color and not the “simple chic” New Yorker/Parisienne. I was starting to move further and further away from this blog but this is finally refreshing. I’m a white woman but I’m sure there are many women of color that read this blog and can only relate to a small percentage of it. Personally, it’s interesting to me to read and see the experiences and beauty rituals of African American women because the magazines and blogs I’ve read my entire life that never go into those topics. Most blogs and magazines, even if they are savvier and more alternative than the stuffy Vogues or Vanity Fairs, don’t feature stories having to do with women of color unless they are specifically targeted towards those women.
Bravo Neada for the change in swing. I have to be honest and say that as beautiful as this blog is (and I’ve been a reader for years), there is a lot of glossiness to it. It would be good to change things and see more of a “real life” focus, NOT ONLY featuring women that are naturally beautiful and wear minimal makeup. There’s nothing wrong with women who are naturally beautiful, but beauty and style are too limited for a blog like this that is trying to and has the potential to have far more reach.
Very refreshing!
It’s so true, I feel ex-act-ly the same and I could not agree more whith you, thanks for saying it with that words.
This is my favorite article here in a really long time–and I like pretty much everything here, but I just love this one! The photographs are beautiful, the salon’s approach is admirable, and I learned a lot from the interview! Please do more features like this!
I’ve been following garancedore.fr for over three years. I’m a big fan of the way you make portraits of the women who are your subjects. I’ve never been someone who needs to see my own hair texture or skin color on other people in order to relate to them, be inspired by them or find them interesting/ beautiful…any person can be intriguing if well presented. And if there were never another post such as this I’d be fine and still a site follower. But I admit, this was real sweet to see. If that makes sense? And the post has kept to the aesthetic of the site (well, why wouldn’t it, I guess?). Also, I reckon the content will benefit some readers who are not familiar with such textured hair, in that they can see that it’s not an oddity and its care is not unbecoming. It simply has different needs naturally. The more women are demystified about each other, the better! Thanks to Garance, Neada and the whole team there. And of course to Saada, Anu and her team. – From a woman who loves her long dredlocs.
C’est dans ces moments là, à la lecture d’articles qui changent et qui nous parlent d’une beauté/ de techniques qui sont peu représentées sur les papiers glacés que je me dis que j’adore vraiment ce blog!! Merci de nous faire découvrir des choses différentes! Je suis ton blog depuis les débuts, et au vu de son évolution, je ne suis pas prête d’arrêter!
Salut garance! alors je suis vraiment heureuse de ton article. je vis en Guyane et je te suis depuis mes années étudiantes et cela fait plaisir de voir un post sur les cheveux naturelles des noires sans les éternels clichés. Merci beaucoup. Fleur de la Martinique et de la Guyane.
Wow you’ve really captured the beauty of this. Bravo! I feel like I’m there with you when looking at these. I especially love the shot of Saada under the dryer. She looks so quietly confident and at peace with herself. It’s not often you see images of real women aware of their own beauty. It’s so refreshing and inspiring!
C’est Magnifique! Thank you so very much for this fabulous article. I’m a 60 year old dark-skinned, African-American woman and at the request of my late husband I began wearing my hair natural back in 1976. We had a delightful 36 year, 8 months and 22 days together as a married couple, running a business, raising & homeschooling 3 sons and traveling the world, and CMadison always, always, always loved my natural hair, sometimes twisted, sometimes braided, sometimes just “out”, but always natural. I think the luscious thickness of my hair at age 60 has a lot to do with keeping it healty, keeping it natural…and of course keeping it loved!
Wonderful post – gorgeous pictures! So refreshing to read this blog…which keeps me coming back!
I think it’s a great idea to incorporate different cultures – their beauty habits, – ideals and so on in the blog more. So interesting and beautiful! Always have been curios about braiding. How the traditions are and how women see it today.
Thanks *
I love your blog for this!
I finally see myself in your bog and that make me love your work more!!
Thank you so much!
Me and family always wear braids, I have been braiding people’s hair since I was 8!
http://www.distinguisheddiva.com/2015/05/avant-garde-hat-by-marios-karavalisis.html
What a breath of fresh air! More please and thank you.
As a woman of color who is a fan of this blog, this is so refreshing! This is an excellent feature. Thoughtful and tender.
I love a good ethnic braiding spot. Back when I was little I used to have long hair I frequented this places with my mom. You captured the essence of that. Awesome job
This post is simply beautiful… and so is your blog. It’s the best thing I’ve stumbled upon in ages.
…..and what about the VERY handsome man under the dryer!
thank you for sharing a part of the African beauty culture on the blog
Such an eye opener :)
Thank you for showing such an important part of African-American culture, our hair! There has been such a movement over the past decade of black women becoming more confident with going natural and moving away from the damage that relaxers cause. I’m just begin my natural hair journey so I loved getting some insight on a great way to wear my hair that won’t be damaging as I transition.
thestyleweaver.com
Reminds me the time I had braids done! I used to live in NYC then, it was just after 9/11 and I decided to do something I’d always wanted to try…
It was quite an experience!! I went to Harlem and had to smile when I found out that another asian (I’m French-Japanese) was there as well :)
I’ve never had that many strangers addressing me while I had my braids! It was definitely an interesting experience, but I don’t think I’ll try again. It’s just so time consuming (I really admire people who do that several times a year – and some women were having such thin braids, must have taken sooooo long to have them all done, it took already 4 hours for mine! And my neck was hurting the following day!) and it’s a bit scary, after a few weeks, to see all the hair fall out ;)
Anyway, great to see this post here, it’s such an important part of beauty steps for so many people :)
Thank you for sharing this story! I love seeing this part of my culture celebrated and shared in such a positive way :-) This is beauty to me, this is home <3
Merci Garance de parler de “nous”… en fait de toutes les femmes dans leur unicité et leur diversité.