DORÉ

This season in NY there were nearly 200 shows and presentations, and while fashion isn’t always revolutionary, I couldn’t help but notice the diversity on the runways. It was beautiful, really, the varying sizes, ages and ethnicities presented felt for the first time, culturally correct considering the somewhat turbulent times going on.

It couldn’t go unnoticed of course though, that the general atmosphere of NYFW has changed. It’s missing that bold NY spirit, a certain showmanship we’ve become so fond of. All the slogan tee-shirts in the world can’t really make up for it. The overall feeling felt, well, a bit stressed really. As I chatted with my fellow friends in the industry over the week long hustle, there seemed to be no clear favorites, standouts, no designer that was dazzling us beyond our expectations. Not to say there weren’t beautiful collections, or front rows of celebrities in questionably weather-appropriate ensembles. Those were all present! I think we all were just really wanting to be in awe …

Nonetheless, fashion week is the moment when designers get to show their collection exactly how they want you to see it- from styling, to location or music, it all plays a part. And let’s not forget, fashion IS fun, and a small, much needed distraction we all dabble in no matter what industry you work in. So despite the temperamental temperatures of fierce arctic winds, followed closely by snow and then 65 degree sun, I layered up and went out to see what our beloved New Yorkers were up to…

Newcomers:

Ok, this might not be their first season, but in my opinion, they are certainly standing out. I’m not sure what’s in the water Down Under, but Christopher Esber is well on his way to becoming a stateside name with his inimitable tailoring and laser focused details he brought to NY this season from Australia.

The sister duo behind Beaufille continue to create elegant but cool pieces, not unlike Kym Ellery who I imagine they must admire – a compliment to their similar design aesthetics.

And while oversize, and sometimes more avant-garde, what I appreciate about Claudia Li is her interpretations. It’s no surprise the New York based designer was formerly design director of J.W. Anderson!

The Established:

Maybe I’m biased as this was my FIRST Proenza Schouler show sitting at the actual show and not live streaming it, but I just thought it was cool. From the draped paper like leathers to the cutout knit dresses, I will always be a fan.

Mary-Kate and Ashley at The Row make beautiful clothes. Period. And this season was no different, a cultivated display of pared back elegance and enough duster-length coats for your whole crew of elegant friends to wear. There was no show more talked about than Raf Simons’ debut at Calvin Klein, and for good reason! American minimalism with a touch of denim and plastic couch covers.

Everything in Between:

What I love about NYFW is that isn’t always what you’d expect. I actually loved Rag & Bone’s 15th anniversary photo exhibit in place of a conventional show – curated images that included the likes of Jerry Seinfield to new portraits from Glen Luchford!

Mansur Gavriel and Rosie Assoulin are no strangers to making their presentations more than just girls standing around. Rosie’s collection felt more wearable than ever before and boasted brilliant carts with tea & biscuits, a live painter, a ceramicist throwing on a wheel and even a 3D printer on site to show just how those earrings were made. Cool!

Mansur’s candy shop was truly just so sweet! Plus, studio favorite Simon Miller didn’t (and never does) disappoint, showing in a flower market and passing out hand warmers and colorful cocktails, both of which provided just the right amount of warmth!

General trends to be aware of and pull out from the back of your closet: plaids & checks, wall street suiting, long coats, oversize everything and especially shearling coats, sherbet silks, and chopped haircuts. Yes, as in cropped and lopped off just at the ear. I think it’s in part to do with the major 90s influence, but also that sense of ease that goes along with it!

And there you have it! New York in a nutshell.