If you were to approach any impossibly glowy and radiant woman and plead for the secrets to their literal skincare brilliance, you\u2019re likely to hear a few of the same responses over and over again. Sunscreen, of course. Lots of water, leafy greens, and sleep, mais oui. And always, always retinol. The brand, percentage strength, and frequency are never the same, but retinol seems to be the secret for all of your skincare heroes. <\/p>\n
\u201cRetinol is hands-down my favorite ingredient for the skin,\u201d says celebrity esthetician and founder of her eponymous skincare brand, Shani Darden<\/a>. You\u2019re likely to hear that sentiment enthusiastically mimicked in every spa, esthetician and dermatologist office, too. <\/p>\n Yet, even though it\u2019s so revered, it\u2019s still very confusing and mysterious to use properly. It\u2019s not as simple as ordering the first option you find online and slathering it on nightly. No no, you\u2019ve got to play the retinol-application game correctly. It\u2019s kind of like the Goldilocks of skincare application: too little, you\u2019ll likely notice not much of a difference at all; too much and you\u2019re likely to end up with comically painful over-sensitized and irritated skin; you need to find the type, brand strength, and usage that\u2019s just right. <\/p>\n To find that just right retinol for you, we asked six experts\u2013from dermatologists to celebrity estheticians to self-made gurus\u2013everything they know about retinol. From what it is, to what it does, to how to use it\u2013consider this your introductory session to retinol. Feel free to take a seat, because class is about to begin. <\/p>\n Hey, what is retinol anyway? <\/strong><\/p>\n Retinol gets all the fame and exaltation, but it\u2019s actually just a type of retinoid, and all retinoids are derived from Vitamin A. \u201cRetinoids is the catch-all term for creams that contain vitamin A derivatives,\u201d says Dr. Morgan Rabach, a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of LM Medical<\/a>. Retinoids seem ingrained into our lives, but they\u2019re a fairly recent discovery: They were first uncovered at the start of the 20th century, but it wasn\u2019t until mid-century that it was able to be made into a product. And (shockingly) it\u2019s not until 1984 that retinoids are made available in over-the-counter skincare products. <\/p>\n Aren\u2019t there a lot of different types of retinol? <\/strong><\/p>\n Yeah, you could say that: Retinol, retinoids, retinoic acid, Retin-A, tazarotene, tretinoin\u2013what?! The different types of retinoids notate different strengths. There are two different retinoid camps: Prescription and everything else. Naturally, the \u201cprescription formulations are all stronger than the over-the-counter varieties,\u201d says Dr. Rabach. (Although we\u2019ll discover below that stronger isn\u2019t necessarily better.) <\/p>\n For the drugstore molecules, the weakest version is retinyl palmitate, then retinol is a bit stronger, then retinaldehyde, and adapalene is the strongest of the drugstore option. When it comes to the prescription strength options, adapalene is the weakest (but stronger than the over-the-counter adapalene), then tretinoin, and tazarotene is the strongest, says Dr. Rabach. Where does the famed Retin-A fit in here? It\u2019s just a name brand of tretinoin, and it also comes in different strengths, she says. <\/p>\n How does retinol even work? <\/strong><\/p>\n No matter which version of retinoids you select, it all works the same way\u2013the stronger versions will just achieve results much quicker (with much more potential side effects). Retinoids are so beloved because they work, and the reason retinoids work so darn well is science. \u201cIt works because our skin is literally designed to work with retinol,\u201d says famed natural skincare pioneer Marie Veronique<\/a>. \u201cOur body is biologically set up to take the messages and information that retinoic acid gives to the cells,\u201d says Veronique. \u201cAnd as long as it’s got all the necessary elements there to do what it directs, it will do it.\u201d <\/p>\n What retinoids accomplish on the cellular level is pretty extraordinary: An increase and speed up of cell turnover in the skin, so healthy new skin is pushed to the surface faster. \u201cIt puts your cells on a treadmill increasing cell turnover (something that slows down in our inevitable march towards\u2026 getting older) and increases collagen production, thickening your dermis and smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles\u2026 aka holy grail,\u201d says Charlotte Palermino<\/a>, co-founder of Nice Paper<\/a> and CEO of soon-to-be-launched skincare brand Dieux<\/a> (and known on Instagram for her science-based skincare advice and no-BS reviews). <\/p>\n More importantly, what can it do for my skin? <\/strong><\/p>\n The better question is, \u2018What can\u2019t it do?\u2019 \u201cIt can exfoliate, stimulate collagen production, increase skin thickness and elasticity, treat acne and breakouts, and target fine lines and wrinkles,\u201d says New York-based medical esthetician Sofie Pavitt<\/a>. <\/p>\n Fine lines? Acne? Dullness? There\u2019s a specific retinoid for that. \u201cRetinols can be applied to the skin in different ways to target different skin conditions,\u201d says Pavitt. \u201cFor example, if you were targeting wrinkles and texture, you might have a deeper penetrating retinoid than one that was used to treat acne, which is closer to the surface of the skin.\u201d <\/p>\n Whoa, and it can do all that immediately? <\/strong><\/p>\n Oh, no, not immediately\u2013no immediate results whatsoever. You\u2019ll have to be in it for the long haul with retinoids. \u201cThere is no immediate gratification when using a retinol product (even the prescription form) like there is with an acid-based product,\u201d says Renee Rouleau<\/a>, Austin-based esthetician and founder of Renee Rouleau Skin Care. <\/p>\n It typically takes around two to three months to really see a difference with consistent retinol use, but if you use it long-term, your skin will look younger, says Rouleau. \u201cThe best results from a retinol come with long-term usage, so stick with it,\u201d encourages Darden. <\/p>\n Does it have side effects? <\/strong><\/p>\n Side effects galore\u2013famously so! Before things get better, they might just get worse first. Side effects can include any (or all) of the following: dryness, flaking skin, redness, and acne. \u201cPart of how it makes pores smaller is by reducing oil production from your sebum glands,\u201d says Dr. Rabach. That reduction in oil can cause dryness. Partner that with the retinoid removing the outer layers of dead skin and you\u2019ve got the perfect recipe for sensitivity, dryness and potential irritation. <\/p>\n Did you start a retinol regime to reduce acne but the Vitamin A just sprung more whiteheads? That\u2019s, unfortunately, par for the course, too. That and excessive dryness are called \u2018purging\u2019 and it\u2019s very common but still very much a pain in the ass. That newly accelerated skin cell turnover is to blame, as the skin is clearing blockages within the pores at a rapid pace. <\/p>\n Depending on the blockages, this purging could range from a blemish or two to major breakouts, and last anywhere from a few days to three months. What\u2019s normal in the dreaded purge stage? \u201cWhen you get a breakout they shouldn\u2019t be in new places, but where you typically get breakouts and, most importantly, because your cell turnover is faster they should heal more quickly,\u201d says Palermino. \u201cThis doesn\u2019t mean you\u2019ll get one breakout, you might get multiple until your skin normalizes, and this is more common the higher the percentage you go or if you use Tretinoin\/Differin.\u201d She suggests consulting your dermatologist if you purge well into month two, but notes there are cases of these reactions lasting up to three months. (Ah, the things we do for beauty.) <\/p>\n If the fear of the purge is the only thing stopping you from trying out a retinoid, go for a more gentle retinol versus a prescription strength then. \u201cRetinol has a much milder effect on the skin, so adverse reactions are rare,\u201d says Veronique. \u201cYou achieve the same results with both, but retinol takes a bit longer.\u201d <\/p>\n Yes\u2013you read that correctly\u2013shockingly, studies have shown<\/a> that over-the-counter retinoids can give you the same impressive results of a prescription, it, as Veronique expressed, will just take longer to achieve those desired effects. <\/p>\n Wow, okay, that\u2019s a lot of side effects. At what age should I start this retinoid regime? <\/strong><\/p>\n The experts asked all seem to agree with the response of \u201c30s.\u201d Pavitt reminds us that our collagen levels are starting to decrease, as is our skin cell turnover\u2013a perfect time to start adopting a retinol into the regime. <\/p>\n But, if you\u2019re currently in your teens or 20s and acne is an issue, Dr. Rabach suggests an adapalene specifically. \u201cI like adapalene because it is an over-the-counter retinol that used to be prescription, so it has been held to the same standard, efficacy wise, as a prescription medication,\u201d she says. \u201cIt\u2019s a great mild introduction to retinol and contains the active ingredients in a standardized and predictable way, unlike most of the other over-the-counter varieties where you do not know how much active product they contain.\u201d <\/p>\n How do I properly use this so-called \u2018holy grail\u2019 retinoid? <\/strong><\/p>\n Slow and steady wins the race for smooth, glowing skin. Only apply a pea-sized amount in the areas you\u2019d like to target. \u201cAny retinol that you start, whether prescription or over-the-counter, should be started slowly,\u201d says Darden. Start with one night a week and then if you have no adverse reactions, gradually build up the applications, adding just one additional night each week, she says. \u201cBuild up to as often as your skin can tolerate.\u201d If you experience dryness or flaking, Pavitt suggests decreasing the number of applications and mixing the retinol in with your moisturizer to \u201cbuffer it a little too.\u201d <\/p>\n If you\u2019re having mild dryness, Rouleau suggests using the one-two punch of a gentle, exfoliating acid serum to (very gently) slough off dry cells and a hydrating serum (like hyaluronic acid) to deliver high-performance ingredients to repair the skin. <\/p>\n Hi, I\u2019m a retinol beginner. Where should I start?<\/strong> <\/p>\n Hey, congrats on starting your retinoid journey. <\/p>\n \u201cI’m a firm believer that everybody can use retinol\u2013and that everybody should\u2013but your job is to find the retinol that works for you,\u201d says Veronique. \u201cFor some people, that’s retinoic acid or Retin-A or whatever\u2013if your skin is fine with it, that’s fantastic.\u201d<\/p>\n Because you\u2019re new to using Vitamin A, start with a well-made, non-prescription version, such as retinol, says Rouleau. The reason you might want to consider a more gentle option and building up is so you actually use it. A lot of first-timers hear of the wonders of retinol, purchase a popular option, apply it, get to the irritation or purging phase, and then immediately stop using it. Veronique says this inconsistency is the worst thing you can do. \u201cYou never get to the point where the retinoic acid is improving your skin because you can’t get past the initial facial retinization,\u201d she says. Rouleau agrees, saying, \u201cMost people who start with a prescription (without proper usage instruction) eventually give up because their skin becomes too dry and irritated. It’s easy to lose patience when something that’s supposed to make your skin look amazing initially makes it look worse.\u201d <\/p>\n So, begin gentle and slow, gradually increasing applications as your skin can handle it, and manage expectations. \u201cExpect to wait a little longer to see results, but you won\u2019t have such dry and flaky skin by going slower,\u201d says Pavitt. <\/p>\n If you want more specifics, Palermino has a few suggestions. Firstly, look for brands that disclose their percentage levels. She notes that .03 to 1 percent is considered active. Secondly, retinol in airless or aluminum tubes ensures that the formula remains potent and active. \u201cBonus points if the retinol is encapsulated and extra bonus points if they nitrogen fill (means there is zero oxygen in the package),\u201d says Palermino. Thirdly, she strongly suggests never using a retinol in clear glass. \u201cClear packaging should be banned from beauty,\u201d she says. This is due to the sun rending retinol inactive, thus a clear bottle would affect it\u2019s formula almost immediately. \u201cIf you want a gorge bottle for your top shelf, go buy some fragrance.\u201d <\/p>\n Hi, I\u2019m a retinol novice. Am I doing it right? <\/strong><\/p>\n Hey, congrats on continuing your retinoid journey. <\/p>\n For those retinol veterans, you probably know (perhaps all too well) exactly how your skin reacts to retinoids. But, \u201cconsistent, long-term use of retinol can affect the skin\u2019s moisture barrier, so it\u2019s really important to use products with barrier-repair ingredients (particularly a well-formulated moisturizer),\u201d says Rouleau. <\/p>\n It might be a good idea to take breaks from your retinoid. \u201cBecause it thins the top layer and is resurfacing your skin, you need to let your stratum corneum chill and get some R&R,\u201d says Palermino. \u201cRest days apply to all parts of your body, including your skin,\u201d she says. Rouleau suggests using a retinol, at most, 75 percent of the nights. She uses a \u2018two nights on, one night off, two nights on, one night off\u2019 rule when it comes to her retinol. Or, you might need a bit more time off, some consistent users like to have a few weeks of downtime in between bottles\u2013listen to your skin and see how it\u2019s feeling. <\/p>\n What are the retinol best practices? <\/strong><\/p>\n \u201cRetinol is skincare bootcamp: when you overdo it, just like with burpees, it\u2019s painful,\u201d says Palermino. Listen to the instructions when it says a pea-sized amount, particularly with a powerful retinoid. \u201c\u2018More is more\u2019 only applies to carbs and hair height\u2026 not resurfacing your face,\u201d says Palermino. <\/p>\n Also, be mindful of your acids, like AHAs or BHAs, when using any type of retinoid. Pavitt advises staying away from any acid treatments the same evening as your retinol. \u201cTo use so many exfoliating products at one time can cause irritation to your skin,\u201d she says. Instead, if you have acids you like, use them on the evenings your not using a retinol. Or you might find, with time, that the retinol provides enough exfoliation on its own. Also, Palermino warns to let your skin purge or acclimate before trying acidic resurfacing treatment altogether. When in doubt, avoid harsh treatments altogether as your skin adjusts. <\/p>\n And you\u2019ve heard it many, many times before…so let us say it again\u2013sunscreen! \u201cSunscreen is also incredibly important when embarking on a retinol routine,\u201d says Pavitt. \u201cVitamin A products make you more sun-sensitive, so make sure you\u2019re using them in the nighttime and also that you\u2019re protecting your skin in the daytime.\u201d <\/p>\n When do I use them?<\/strong><\/p>\n You\u2019ll save money by not needing to massage them on in the a.m. because retinoids are inactivated by sunlight, so it\u2019s a nighttime-only product. Dr. Rabach suggests cleansing your face, toning (only if you already do this step) and then massaging your retinoid on clean skin. Then apply your moisturizer over the retinol. <\/p>\n Is it right for everyone? <\/strong><\/p>\n Pretty much, but there is one big caveat. Pregnant and nursing women can\u2019t use Vitamin A products. And anyone that is sun-damaged or over-exfoliated should walk away for a week or two. <\/p>\n For Those That Are Acne-Prone<\/strong><\/p>\n Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1 Acne Treatment<\/a>, $13.99<\/p>\n Dr. Rabach is a fan of adapalene for acne, noting that \u201cit has been held to the same standard, efficacy wise, as a prescription medication.\u201d It\u2019s also great because you know exactly the active percentage and efficacy, something hard to come by with other over-the-counter options, she says. This version used to be available only by prescription, but now it\u2019s at Target for $13.99. Praise be! <\/p>\n The Not Actual Retinol Option<\/strong><\/p>\n Ole Henriksen Glow Cycle Retin-ALT Power Serum<\/a>, $58<\/p>\n Bakuchiol is a rising star in the retinoid world, particularly because it\u2019s safe for pregnant and nursing women. It comes from plants and is showing promising signs in studies that it\u2019s nearly as effective as retinol in stimulating collagen production. This lavender-tinted option not only leaves a very lit-from-within glow after application, but it\u2019s also perfectly gentle and safe for any and all. <\/p>\n The Clean, But Effective Option <\/strong><\/p>\n Marie Veronique Gentle Retinol Night Serum<\/a>, $110<\/p>\n Skincare pioneer Marie Veronique has spent a lifetime perfecting this retinol. Beyond just the standards of clean and safe, she wanted to make a formula that just plain and simple works. Unlike almost any other clean option you\u2019ll see on the market, this serum is stabilized and micro-encapsulated, meaning the active ingredients it has listed on the label are actually active and effective. It\u2019s also paired with Vitamins C and E, both of which have been shown to boost collagen-building effects. All of this will allow you to apply your serum sans-irritation like Veronique does every night: \u201cLavishly.\u201d <\/p>\n The Celebrity-Approved Option<\/strong><\/p>\n Shani Darden Retinol Reform<\/a>, $95<\/p>\n Darden created the now famed Retinol Reform when she couldn\u2019t find one on the market that had the same amazing results of a prescription retinol without the harsh side effects. It\u2019s also formulated with lactic acid to gently exfoliate, providing brightening and smoothing benefits rather immediately, in addition to the long-term cellular turnover from the retinol. <\/p>\n The Effective, But Not Too Harsh Option<\/strong><\/p>\n